A local’s guide to onsens in Myoko Kogen

For many chasing Japow, an afternoon or evening onsen becomes just as much a part of the appeal as fresh lines and ramen. The mineral-packed waters of a therapeutic and restorative natural onsen offer the perfect complement to a day on the mountain.

Fortunately, Myoko Kogen has a host of choices. While some accommodations will have their own in-house onsen, many, perhaps most, do not. With that in mind, what are the options for those looking to heal their aches and pains ahead of the next day’s punishment?

In Myoko Kogen, there are five hot spring sources across the seven onsen areas of Akakura, Shin-Akakura, Myoko, Ikenotaira, Suginosawa, Seki and Tsubame. Spring skiers from seasons past may be familiar with the last of those mentioned. Closed during winter, Tsubame Onsen’s Ougon-no-yu is a free, outdoor hot spring that typically opens sometime during March. To access the onsen at this time, one needs to walk over the snow but it’s well worth the effort.

Like Ougon-no-yu, some onsen (or at least, their outdoor areas) will be closed during winter. So, we’ll exclude those, along with some of the in-house onsens, when having a look at your onsen options on your next Myoko ski trip. This list won’t be exhaustive. You may have a favourite onsen not mentioned. Feel free to share your secret!

Calico Country Club

This one has never made any previous lists. That’s because it’s brand new. In fact, at the time of writing, renovations are in full swing with a view to opening in December 2023. Situated on the main street of Akakura Onsen (the old Yuki Dake/Jack’s Bar building), this new establishment will include an onsen with a unique point of difference for Myoko – mixed bathing.

While many plans are yet to be fully finalised, the onsen will be part of a “recovery centre” that also includes saunas, plunge pools and shower pods. Unlike all the options following this entry on the list, don’t forget to bring your swimwear.

The in-house restaurant (twinned with locations in Hakuba and Canggu, Bali) will be serving a modern take on Western favourites, with some Japanese influence in the form of local seasonal produce. There’ll also be a basement bar, a gym and guest rooms with a mixture of dorm and private options.

Says general manager, Paul Currie, “I’m excited to be a part of something new on the main street of Akakura – the newest thing in decades!”

The mixed bathing/swimwear option fills the void for those visitors who want to soak with a partner, friend or family member of a different sex, or simply those among us who are still a bit shy about the options below (strictly, no pants).

Landmark Onsen Café

Depending upon which map or website you look it up on, this place will either show up as Landmark Onsen Café or Alpen Blick Spa (not to be confused with the onsen inside Alpen Blick Hotel at a different Ikenotaira address). Either way, you’ll find it in the Ikenotaira area, diagonally across the intersection from the ever-popular Arakin Ramen.

Landmark features a large indoor area with huge windows offering a grand view of Mount Myoko (or an intrusive blizzard of dumping snow), a sauna and an outdoor area where you might occasionally see one of the younger locals jump bare-bummed into the snow on a dare – that sort of behaviour probably shouldn’t be encouraged!

Also inside the building is a relaxation area and internet café, a convenience store and a restaurant, Tsugumi. See our Myoko Kogen restaurant guide for more info on this generously priced izakaya.

Bonus onsen – Nearby Landmark, Lime Resort’s onsen shares the same source and is also open to the public.

Naena-no-yu

This is your go-to after a day’s sliding at Suginohara. Tapping into the Suginosawa source, this onsen shares its name with the famous nearby Naena Falls, which most people will have seen in a photo, if not the real thing.

Image: naenanoyu.com

Like Fureai Kaikan and Ō-yu, Naena-no-yu is quite a local, community-run affair and is a lovely place to rejuvenate and relax. It is also the only onsen option at the Sugi end of Myoko Kogen.

Fureai Kaikan

Just down the hill a little from Landmark is the onsen at Fureai Kaikan. It is one of the cheapest options in Myoko and is much more of a local experience than either Landmark or Lime.

Run by Myoko City, this onsen is flanked by relaxation areas and other rooms used for meetings and the like. Visitors looking to ease muscle and joint aches while getting a feel for the local community may enjoy this option but a word of warning – the onsen is small (especially the male side). The term “two and a half men” comes to mind in a fairly literal fashion.

Ō-yu

Like Fureai Kaikan, this place uses the same source as Landmark and Lime but offers a local vibe. The two main differences are that it’s bigger than Fureai Kaikan and situated down the hill in Myoko Kogen – or Myoko Onsen.

Ō-yu is about a 15-minute walk from Myoko Kogen Station. Visitors looking to fill in wait time with a very Japanese experience could do a lot worse than paying it a visit.

Bonus onsen – Hotel Kofukan is also in the area and is home to an onsen with great views of the mountain. Favouring in-house guests, depending upon availability, reserving a private onsen may also be an option.

“Hotel Kofukan is also in the area and is home to an onsen with great views of the mountain”. Image: Booking.com

Hotel Taiko

Back to where we started in Akakura Onsen, Hotel Taiko is one that has been around for many years. Downstairs, just next to the fabulous and funky Grape and Grain bar, is the onsen.

Hotel Taiko onsen. Image: Booking.com

This is very popular with visitors and Myokoites alike, owing not so much to the indoor section but to what’s outside. There, you’ll find a large and comfortable outdoor bath with fantastic views out towards Tangram, Madarao and beyond.

There’s something about bathing outside, naked but warm under the gently falling snow that tops off a day like no other. When you’ve soaked your aches and pains away, a soothing whisky or wine is literally just a few short steps away.

Onsening in Myoko and Beyond

As mentioned, this is not an exhaustive list but does offer some pretty good places to start. If you’re lucky, your chosen accommodation may offer you an option not mentioned above. Whether that is the case or not, onsen hopping might become your new hobby.

For those looking for a bit more information on dos and don’ts, check out Ski Asia’s “The Skier’s Guide to Onsen in Japan”. Quick onsen tip: one of the most often asked questions is regarding tattoos. There is plenty of information on that subject in the article just mentioned but in short, ask the staff at your accommodation to find out for you before you go.