One Japanese ski resort has recorded more than 4 metres of snow already

An early season conditions report for Niseko, Rusutsu, Furano, Hakuba, Nozawa Onsen and Geto Kogen

There was a huge amount of excitement in the lead up to this Japanese ski season, perhaps because the last couple have been so good, and perhaps because the noise of travel restrictions and border closures have largely abated.

In September, the Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA) issued its long-term winter forecast, raising the prospect of less-than-ideal conditions and an El Nino-affected season. Ski resorts have been on edge ever since.

Needless to say, we were all waiting to see how the season kicked off, and when resorts across Japan were hit with snowstorms through the middle and end of November, things were looking promising.

Now, as we approach the middle of December and resorts open to the public, we’ve done our best to give you a snapshot of the early season conditions in Niseko, Rusutsu, Furano, Hakuba, Nozawa Onsen and Geto Kogen. One of them emerges as a clear winner, but you’ll have to read on to find out who it is!

Niseko United

The ski community across Japan would have felt some excitement as November delivered its best cumulative snowfall total in Niseko since 2017, which was enough to get lifts spinning in Niseko Village on December 1. Grand Hirafu, Hanazono and Annupuri followed suit two days later – albeit with heavily restricted lift operations and terrain. There were some tantalising powder videos circulating across social media for a few days, but the shine has somewhat worn off this week.

There’s been no significant snowfall since December 1, and with periods of rain through this week, the outlook for getting more of the mountain open is not looking good, especially with more rain in the forecast for Friday night and Saturday. Fortunately, Sunday is expected to bring low temperatures and some much-needed snowfall, but it’s not looking like it will be enough to get the season really rolling.

Niseko is very much playing a waiting game.

Lift status: Limited operations (check the Niseko United website for real-time updates)
Summary: Off to a slow start after a promising November
Local report: Snow Japan

Niseko Grand Hirafu Snow Forecast as of 8 December 2023. snow-forecast.com

 

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Rusutsu

Rusutsu managed to go one better than Niseko and get lifts spinning on the last day of November, thanks to some very appetising snowfalls at the back end of the month (including a couple of ~40cm days). Local reporter Rusutsu 20-20 has so far reported 159cm of cumulative snowfall for the season, however the last notable dump was on December 2 with 8cm.

To its credit, Rusutsu Resort managed to get the Isola Gondola open last weekend, and since Monday skiers have been able to go top to bottom on the resort’s 3500m Isola Ground Course. However, like Niseko, it’s been a very slow week, and resort staff will be hoping for some more of the white stuff soon.

At it stands, rain is expected Friday and Saturday night, with light snow in the forecast from Sunday and a more promising storm to arrive Wednesday. Fingers crossed.

Lift status: Limited operations (check the Rusutsu website for real-time updates)
Summary: Off to a slow start after a promising November
Local report: Rusutsu 20-20

Rusutsu Snow Forecast as of 8 December 2023. snow-forecast.com

Furano

Furano has woken to 10cm of fresh snow at village level this morning (more up the mountain) – a welcome top-up after a slow start to the month. Like its Hokkaido counterparts, a very snowy November (~120cm) was enough to get the resort up and running, with the Furano Ropeway spinning and a reasonable amount of terrain in the Furano Zone currently open. Kitanomine Zone remains closed, for now.

The resort will need to get through what looks to be a warm and rainy Saturday morning without too much damage, but things are looking up from there. Cold temperatures and heavy snow are expected Sunday night, with light falls expected through the week.

Lift status: Limited operations
Summary: Reasonable early season coverage, but more snow needed to get the whole resort running
Local report: Snow Japan

Furano Snow Forecast as of 8 December 2023. snow-forecast.com

Hakuba

A huge storm at the end of November set up Hakuba very nicely for some early season powder, with Goryu and Tsugaike opening on the 30th and Hakuba 47 and Happo following not long after. There have been sporadic top-ups through the week and around 15cm yesterday according to the Hakuba Facebook page – run by the White Horse Hakuba owners (a must follow if you’re after daily updates).

Unlike parts of Hokkaido, Hakuba has done well to avoid the rain, which has kept conditions on the mountain good. A base of 95cm is being reported at Tsugaike. Lifts across Goryu, 47, Happo and Tsugaike have been gradually opening through the week, with Happo’s Alpen quad lift and Kurobishi Number 2 quad the latest to get moving as of today.

Unfortunately, the outlook from here is not so positive, with no fresh snow in the forecast and rain predicted for Sunday and early next week. Let’s hope it doesn’t eventuate.

Lift status: Limited operations (check the Hakuba Valley website for real-time updates)
Summary: Great early season conditions, with trouble ahead
Local report: Hakuba Now

Hakuba Happo-One forecast as of 8 December 2023. snow-forecast.com

Nozawa Onsen

After a windy day yesterday which closed saw the mountain closed entirely, Nozawa Onsen is back in operation today. Lower sections are yet to open for the season, with only the top Yamabiko area open, as well as the beginner paradise, Nozawa’s Uenotaira run. As of today, the resort is reporting a 40cm base at Yamabiko.

Lower areas of Nozawa Onsen are currently closed

The first week of opening was described as “a doozy” by the Nozawa Holidays team, with “multiple days with 10-20cm top ups of fresh snow and some beautiful bluebird days”.

However, the optimism may be short-lived, with warmer temperatures and rain in the forecast for Sunday and early next week, and not much hope in the short-term for any significant snowfall.

Lift status: Limited operations (check the Nozawa Onsen website for real-time updates)
Summary: Good early season conditions, limited terrain open, trouble ahead
Local report: Nozawa Now

Nozawa Onsen forecast as of 8 December 2023. snow-forecast.com

Geto Kogen

We include the lesser-known Geto Kogen in this update, partly to represent Japan’s Tohoku region, but also because it set the internet on fire in late November with some of the craziest early season conditions you’ll find. The resort reported a cumulative snowfall total of 375cm on December 1 – more than some of the best international ski areas will get in an entire season. November 30 alone saw 120cm+ (top of the mountain), and the total now sits at more than 4 metres (as of 8 December).

 

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Yes, things have eased up since the beginning of this month, but with all major runs open and a reported base of 95cm (top) is has been the good news story that we have all been looking for.

Sadly, it looks like things are going to ease up in a big way from here, with warmer temperatures, minimal snow and the potential for rain over in the next 6-day period. But it was good while it lasted!

Lift status: Number 1 Gondola, main runs open (check the Geto Kogen website for real-time updates)
Summary: Epic early season
Local report: Geto Kogen Now

Geto Kogen forecast as of 8 December 2023. snow-forecast.com