At the northern tip of Honshu, Aomori Prefecture boasts some of the most extraordinary winter conditions in the world. During the cold season, roads become towering snow corridors, houses are buried under heavy snowdrifts, and trees are tranformed into hulking “snow monsters”, known in Japan as juhyo. It’s no surprise, then, that some of Japan’s best skiing is found in this region.
Just 20km south of Aomori downtown area is Hakkoda Ski Area, a lift-accessed backcountry paradise, known for its iconic 101-person gondola, the Hakkoda Ropeway. This resort – if you can call it that – consists of just 5 courses and 4 backcountry routes, yet is often referred to as the “mecca” or “holy grail” of powder skiing in Japan.
Lifts & Terrain
Lifts
Hakkoda is serviced by two lifts, the Hakkoda Chairlift, a small two-seater, and the stunning Hakkoda Ropeway. The chairlift offers access to the resort’s beginner-intermediate terrain, which includes two groomed runs and a short slalom course, while the ropeway offers access to the entire Hakkoda range, including the resort’s famous backcountry routes.
Hakkoda Ropeway. Image supplied
The ropeway, a tourist attraction in its own right, operates year-round, with seasonal passes available to skiers for the duration of the winter season (December to May). It spins from 9am to 4:20pm between March and mid-November and from 9am to 3:40pm between late November and late February, departing roughly every 15-20 minutes.
Terrain
“This is a raw, unspoiled backcountry experience for seasoned skiers and snowboarders.”
Hakkoda’s major point of difference is that most of the terrain on offer is ungroomed, which, given the near constant snowfall, is a huge drawcard for more experienced skiers. This is not the resort for those seeking beautifully manicured slopes and predictable terrain. This is a raw, unspoiled backcountry experience for seasoned skiers and snowboarders.
Hakkoda’s four backcountry “routes” are another level up, and require skiers to have the appropriate avalanche training, safety equipment and guides. Image supplied
Hakkoda’s popular intermediate “courses”, Forest Course (5km) and Direct Course (3.5km), offer an excellent introduction to backcountry terrain within a safer, more controlled environment. Unlike Hakkoda’s backcountry “routes”, the courses are laid out with signs, poles and tape, and are monitored by ski patrol.
While the terrain isn’t overly steep, conditions can still be challenging given the unpredictable nature of Aomori’s weather gods. Sudden changes can lead to near-zero visibility, which, when combined with an overabundance of powder, adds an extra layer of difficulty.
Ski Asia writer Hanni Steppan on a perfect day in Hakkoda
Hakkoda’s four backcountry “routes” are another level up, and require skiers to have the appropriate avalanche training, safety equipment and guides. Additionally, the routes funnel down to Hakkoda’s ring road – not the ropeway base – so hiring a guide solves the issue of transport.
Snowfall
Hakkoda’s deep powder is, naturally, the product of a fairly relentless winter climate. In peak season, from mid-December to late-February, the resort is blessed with 6-7 powder days per week, with an average snow base of 4+ metres. This onslaught of powder can be attributed to Hakkoda’s location at the northern tip of Honshu, where it sees the full brunt of Siberian storms rolling across the Sea of Japan.
Hakkoda’s “snow monsters” take shape when its fir trees are battered with water droplets, which then freeze and accumulate large deposits of snow and ice. Image supplied
First snow is typically seen in the last week of October, with a ski season that runs from mid-December until mid-May. Across the entire season, the resort accumulates an estimated 17m of snowfall on average, ranking it among Japan’s snowiest ski resorts.
These same conditions are also responsible for a fun natural phenomenon known as juhyo or “snow monsters” – more famously found at Zao Onsen. The monsters take shape when Hakkoda’s fir trees are battered with water droplets, which then freeze and accumulate large deposits of snow and ice.
Accommodation
Conveniently located on Mt. Hakkoda, Hotel Jogakura is just an 8 minute drive from the Hakkoda ropeway. It’s also the endpoint of the Jogakura Onsen backcountry route. This Scandanavian-inspired hotel and nature retreat features an open-air hot spring bath that looks directly onto Japanese beech forest. It also offers indoor baths, saunas and a jacuzzi. Dining options include a set course dinner featuring local ingredients, including fresh fish sourced from the market each morning.
Hotel Jogakura. Image supplied
Many more options exist in Aomori City, 20km north of the resort. The bulk of accommodation is found along Shinmachi-dori, a shopping street that extends from Aomori Station.
Services & Facilities
4-Ride is an Aomori-based tour operator that, come wintertime, offers a popular snowshoe tour of Hakkoda’s iconic snow monsters. The tour, which is suitable for showshoe novices, goes for ¥12,000 per person or ¥65,000 for a private group (up to 5 people). Beginning at the top of the Hakkoda Ropeway, it allows participants to see the monsters up close, while wading through Hakkoda’s famously deep powder. Prices include round-trip ropeway tickets, rental clothing (if needed), equipment, insurance and guide fees.
Snowshoeing in Hakkoda. Image supplied
If, due to adverse weather, the ropeway is closed, 4-Rides offers an alternative “snow hike” (a combination of snow shoes and skis) through beech forest at Sukayu Onsen.
Food & Nightlife
Aomori City, with a population of 260,000, is just a short commute from Hakkoda and offers plenty in the way of restaurants, bars and izakaya. The city is particularly well known for its seafood – hardly surprising given its proximity to the Sea of Japan. Aomori Gyosai Center offers the chance to craft your own nokke-don (rice bowl) by hand picking from a selection of fresh seafood, including fish, shellfish, seaweed and fish eggs.
Culture & Ambiance
Hakkoda is largely surrounded by nature, with Aomori City providing the nearest urban hub. However, for those looking to soak up Japanese culture – literally – there are a handful of onsens nearby. One such spot is Sukayu Onsen, where sulphur-rich waters have welcomed bathers for over 300 years. Sukayu features both male- and female-only baths, but is particularly famous for its massive co-ed bath, Senjin Buro, known as “the bath of a thousand bathers. The water here is said to promote healing due to its incredibly high acidity.
Sukayu Onsen’s sulphur-rich waters have welcomed bathers for over 300 years. Image supplied
For a taste of festival culture, head to Aomori City, where the Nebuta Museum WA RASSE offers a fascinating look at the region’s iconic festival floats. This year-round exhibition includes four full-sized floats that showcase the intricate designs, colours and sounds of the Nebuta Festival. The museum is located just across from JR Aomori Station.
Head to Nebuta Museum in Aomori City, where WA RASSE offers a fascinating look at the region’s iconic festival floats. Image supplied
Getting there
Train
From Tokyo Station, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Shin-Aomori Station. The journey takes roughly 3 hours, with up to 20 departures per day.
To get to Tokyo Station from Narita International Airport, take the Narita Express (N’EX) limited express train, which takes less than an hour to reach Tokyo before continuing on to Shinagawa, Shibuya and Shinjuku stations.
Air
JAL offers flights from Haneda Airport to Aomori Airport. Haneda can be reached via the Keikyu Airport Line or the Tokyo Monorail. Direct flights are not available from Narita International Airport.
Value
Unlike your typical Japanese ski resort, Hakkoda does not sell a combined day pass for its ropeway and double chair, which, given they serve entirely different types of terrain, makes little difference to most skiers. The resort does, however, offer a monthly pass that includes access to both lifts.
“…Hakkoda is incredibly unique in that it offers lift access to some of the most rugged and remote backcountry terrain in Japan…”
For a single day’s access to the Hakkoda Ropeway, the resort provides three options – a one-way ticket for ¥1,400 yen, a 6-ride pass for ¥6,400 or an 11-ride pass for ¥10,600. The 6-ride pass is effectively a day pass given the time it takes to queue, ascend and make your way down the mountain.
The ¥6,400 price tag is excellent value, no matter how you measure it. Keep in mind that Hakkoda is incredibly unique in that it offers lift access to some of the most rugged and remote backcountry terrain in Japan, which in many other ski areas would typically require a pricey snowcat or heli-skiing tour to access.
Hakkoda is comparable in price to some of the more popular mid-sized resorts in Japan, including Sapporo Teine (¥5,700), Hakuba Norikura (¥5,000) and Alts Bandai (¥5,700), and is, naturally, much cheaper than larger resorts such as Rusutsu (¥14,500) or Niseko United (¥10,500).
