Riding the Tohoku Shinkansen north from Tokyo in winter is like watching a landscape transform in fast-forward. As the train speeds through the countryside, the snow deepens, blanketing rice fields, forests, and mountains. Every so often, a ski area flashes into view, just for a moment, before disappearing behind ridgelines and trees. Kunimidaira Ski Resort is one of those places, a fleeting glimpse of a ski resort tucked into the mountains of Oshu, Iwate, gone almost as quickly as it appears.
Kunimidaira view from the parking area. Image: Eliot Cochrane
The small resorts scattered along the shinkansen route and beyond may not draw the crowds or headlines of Japan’s famous ski destinations, but they endure. They are sustained by locals who care more about the turns than the luxuries, where skiing exists in its simplest form.
Slow lifts, limited vertical drop, and a lodge that feels more makeshift than permanent might not sound enticing, yet there are regulars here too. Skiing isn’t always about deep snow or the longest runs. For those who choose to ski here, it never was.
Prefab main lodge at Kunimidaira. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Weather and snow conditions
Being in close proximity to powder ski heavens like Geto Kogen Ski Resort, Kunimidaira unfortunately does not receive nearly the same amount of snow. In the past few years, which have had reduced snowfall, the base is nearly 90 cm consistently. This year is exceptional to result in 150 cm, but Kunimidaira isn’t known for being a powder resort. This resort excels as a skill-building area with a great groomer base that gets just enough snowfall to stay soft but easy to carve.
View from the top of Kunimidaira’s mogul course. Image: Eliot Cochrane
The occasional powder day is highly sought after by the local younger population. During the 2024/2025 season, this year has been quite good for powder days and the locals have been happy. Located just below both lifts, there are multiple powder areas. They may not be long, but the competition for fresh powder isn’t as aggressive as bigger resorts.
Mountain layout
Trail map at Kunimidaira. Image: Kunimidaira
Covering 11 trails and 210 m of vertical drop, two lifts are all that are offered at Kunimidaira. The lifts can be broken down into skill categories:
Beginner/Intermediate – Kunimi First Pair Lift
The first lift from the bottom, this covers 8 out of the 11 trails on offer. Right below the top of the lift on each side are powder areas. One steep and semi-wide, the other a little narrow but a winding feeling. Then branching out are the intermediate and beginner courses. The longest being a road that is used in summer that is converted to a trail in winter. There are even road signs and mirrors for drivers, which are fun for pictures!
Rinkan (Forest) course is a road in the summer at Kunimidaira. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Advanced – Kunimi Second Lift
This lift always gets a bit of a double take from newcomers as this is a single chair or pizza box chair. Kunimi Second Lift has access to only 3 trails that are all advanced level trails due to their pitch or narrow nature. With one powder area midway down, there is also tree access between an upper course and the narrow winding course below. The resort does not have a problem with skiers entering here as long as a helmet is worn.
Looking up the trails from Kunimi Second Lift at Kunimidaira. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Off-piste opportunities
For the traditional resort powder, there are 3 options but are relatively short. In addition, there is a tree section that can be accessed from the Kunimi Second Lift. But the real off-piste enthusiasts make one special run in the morning before getting back on the resort train.
Looking down the Dancing Bear course towards the unused T-bar and trail. Image: Eliot Cochrane
There used to actually be a third lift, a T-bar, at Kunimidaira. This is right next to the current Kunimi Second Lift. This gave access to a single trail that was moderate in pitch and about 850 m in length. The easiest way to this area is from the top of the Kunimi First Pair Lift, and then hiking up an old road that is uncleared in winter and winds all the way to the top. It’s a short climb and a short descent, but for absolute untouched powder in its natural state, this is the only option
Why Kunimidaira?
Overlooking the Downhill course at Kunimidaira. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Kunimidaira is always a fun reminder about how a pure love of skiing can thrive even in snow conditions that pale in comparison. The main lodge of Kunimidaira is small and a prefabricated building, almost as though it was temporary and then just stayed. The rental skis are kept in an old shipping container. The only thing resembling a building is the ski patrol hut, which is even smaller than the shipping container. Yet, in spite of that, the courses are groomed well and tons of people volunteer to help keep the slopes safe.
Also, Kunimidaira is located in Oshu. Currently, the highest-paid athlete in the world, Shohei Ohtani, was born and grew up here. Anywhere you go in the town, there is love for Shohei Ohtani, and the ski area is no different. On warmer days, the occasional baseball jersey with his number will be on the slopes, and any baseball preseason event is the conversation subject of the day in the main lodge. Who knows, maybe he skied here in his youth too!
Local cuisine – Beef Sushi (にぎり)
Beef Sushi, the local cuisine of Oshu, Iwate. Image: tohoku365
The area around Kunimidaira, Oshu, and Maesawa is known for the high-quality beef produced by local farmers. Mixing this prized beef with the famous Japanese dish, sushi, results in a unique and delicious creation. It’s finely sliced beef placed atop a mound of rice, with a hint of wasabi in between. This dish, which has been a local specialty for over 20 years, has become a symbol of the area’s culinary identity.
Zukehachi-zushi, the restaurant which created the beef sushi. Image: NAVITIME
Zukehachi-zushi (助八寿司) is credited with being the birthplace of beef sushi and remains a beloved establishment to this day. Known for its tender cuts of beef, the restaurant has become a local institution, drawing crowds especially on weekends for lunch and dinner. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a regular, the experience of enjoying this dish feels like an authentic taste of Oshu.
Getting to Kunimidaira
BY CAR
Take the highway to the Hiraizumi Maesawa exit, then drive 40 minutes to the resort. A navigation system may be required as signage may not have English.
Bridge with signage to Kunimidaira. Source: Eliot Cochrane
There are no public transportation options to Kunimidaira.
“Kunimidaira feels like a place hanging on by a thread, a ski area that exists in a quiet balance between the mountains and the passing seasons.”
Who is Kunimidaira for?
Kunimidaira is definitely a barebones skiing experience. A prefab hut as a lodge, shipping container as rental storage, and a tiny hut for ski patrol. It doesn’t get any more barebones than that. This isn’t the place to get big powder like Geto Kogen, nor are the trails long like Appi Kogen, which are both in Iwate. This is the place for a cheap ticket, family outings, meeting up with the regulars, and getting some turns in.
Local snowboarder riding the Technical course at Kunimidaira. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Kunimidaira feels like a place hanging on by a thread, a ski area that exists in a quiet balance between the mountains and the passing seasons. Everything about it feels fleeting, as though it may be in its last season. Yet, despite its fragility, the slopes are still there, offering up turns for anyone willing to embrace the simple joy of skiing.
View from the top of the Kunimi Second Lift Kunimidaira. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Ski Asia’s Tiny Resorts series is a tribute to the ~85% of ski resorts in Japan with fewer than five lifts – the heart and soul of the country’s ski industry. The series was inspired by the popularity of an article we published in 2023, titled “5 tiny Japanese ski resorts that you’re guaranteed to fall in love with“.
