After years of declining visitors and reduced snowfall, Aomori prefecture's Owani Onsen has become a story of compromise and a shadow of its former self.
While bigger resorts keep expanding, many medium-sized and smaller resorts are downsizing. Owani Onsen Ski Resort is one of these places that, in its heyday, must have been a great destination. Featuring a gondola and multiple peaks, there was surely a lot being offered.
View from the top of the first lift looking towards the second lift. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Started in 1923, Owani Onsen Ski Resort has seen many iterations and improvements through to 1990. The current lodge is decorated with black-and-white photos and stories chronicling Japan’s skiing history and its connection to Owani Onsen.
Leading up to the early ‘90s, there were high hopes for the resort. Expansion continued with a gondola and additional terrain in preparation for the 45th National Winter Games. But when the bubble burst, every ski resort struggled. After years of declining visitors and reduced snowfall, Owani Onsen has become a story of compromise and a shadow of its former self.
Undated aerial photo edited to show the unused area (shaded), unused lifts (red), and current lifts (green) at Owani Onsen Ski Resort. Image: co-Trip
Weather and snow conditions
During the 2024/2025 winter season, Aomori Prefecture, like much of Japan, has been hit with heavy snowfall. Avalanches have become a risk for many areas, including Owani Onsen. In a usual season, the powder is great, but deep snowpacks are rare, and the groomed courses are the resort’s foundation.
Top of Takinosawa Slope which has been closed for safety. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Compared to larger surrounding resorts, Owani Onsen doesn’t receive as much snow, but it is dependable. Mt. Iwaki to the west and Mt. Hakkoda to the east are fantastic for deep snow and great hiking opportunities but often experience harsh conditions. Owani Onsen, positioned between them, is often sheltered from the strongest winds. When high winds shut down lifts at the larger resorts, Owani Onsen is usually still open.
Mountain layout
2024/2025 Owani Onsen Ski Resort course guide. Image: Eliot Cochrane
The beginner areas are neatly organized within two zones, each served by its own lift. The first lift from the ski center leads to the second lift and provides access to a beginner trail. This is a popular spot for new skiers and local kids who create small courses through the trees.
The second lift is the most popular as it grants access to the best powder areas. It also has a midway unloading point for beginners, offering a wide, open slope. But for powder seekers, this is where the resort shines.
Looking backward from the second lift. Image: Eliot Cochrane
The third lift takes skiers to the top, providing access to the race hill and a beginner trail that doubles as a summer road. As the road winds its way down, tree access is available, but the trees are not thinned out as it is not classified as a tree run.
For those looking for longer runs, like the race hill, the experience is hampered by slow lifts. Getting to the top requires multiple lifts, meaning more time sitting and less time skiing. However, on the right powder day, the second lift is great for doing laps.
The total vertical drop from the three lifts is 609m.
Part way down the Amaike International Course. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Off-Piste opportunities
The 2024/2025 season has blessed Owani Onsen with plenty of snow. However, avalanche risks have led to the closure of ungroomed areas. Normally, the second lift offers access to the most popular powder zones, where three trails provide a sustained pitch, perfect for floaty turns through powder.
Looking up Maehira Bahn from the second lift. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Beyond the resort, there are opportunities for hiking to the old gondola and exploring its former trails. The hike is relatively easy and popular with those new to backcountry skiing. It provides a controlled environment for uphill travel and great terrain on the way down. This is a common testing ground and gear check before bigger mountains like Mt. Hakkoda. It is also the only way to reach the highest point on the mountain.
Hiking up unused trails at Owani Onsen Ski Area. Image: YAMAP
Why Owani Onsen?
“While popular ski resorts boast luxury amenities, smaller places like this are the backbone of skiing culture, always ready to welcome visitors.”
Owani Onsen Ski Resort isn’t going to be the first pick for most skiers. It serves more as a backup plan when foul weather shuts down better resorts. It is a reliable place to get in some turns and experience a different ski area. But visiting Owani Onsen is also a humbling experience. While popular ski resorts boast luxury amenities, smaller places like this are the backbone of skiing culture, always ready to welcome visitors.
A surge of customers as surrounding resorts were put on wind hold. Image: Eliot Cochrane
This resort is a reminder that while Japan’s well-known ski destinations attract crowds and investment, many smaller ski areas offer a basic but unique experience. These places are disappearing, taking a significant part of skiing history and culture with them. In Owani Onsen’s case, Japan’s skiing history is directly tied to this resort, making its decline all the more heartbreaking.
Where to stay
Extravagant: KAI Tsugaru (界 津軽)
Double room at KAI Tsugaru. Image: Hoshino Resorts Co.
Nestled near Owani Onsen Ski Resort, KAI Tsugaru is a refined getaway operated by Hoshino Resorts Co. This ryokan blends relaxation with cultural experiences, offering live Tsugaru shamisen performances and hands-on traditional crafts. It is a perfect way to unwind after skiing while immersing yourself in local history and artistry.
Semi-private dining area available at KAI Tsugaru. Image: Hoshino Resorts Co.
Guests can enjoy both indoor and outdoor onsens, where the natural hot spring water soothes tired muscles. In winter, the snowy surroundings create a peaceful atmosphere. The kaiseki-style cuisine is another highlight, featuring locally sourced ingredients prepared with meticulous detail. Dining options include general seating or semi-private rooms, offering a more intimate setting. With a balance of luxury, culture, and relaxation, KAI Tsugaru provides an unforgettable stay.
Simplicity: Lamp Inn Aoni Onsen (ランプの宿)
Stairs leading to the onsens at Lamp Inn Aoni Onsen. Image: Stay Japan
Located an hour east of Owani Onsen Ski Resort, Lamp Inn Aoni Onsen offers a unique luxury escape, free from modern distractions. There are no televisions, refrigerators, or outlets in the guest rooms. Instead, the entire inn is illuminated only by lamps, creating a timeless and serene atmosphere.
Single tatami-style room at Lamp Inn Aoni Onsen. Image: Stay Japan
This secluded onsen ryokan features multiple hot spring baths, each with its own charm. Guests can soak in the open-air bath beside the Aoni Stream, enjoy the rustic beech-wood bath, or relax in the stone bath, all while surrounded by nature’s tranquility. The experience extends to the meals, which highlight seasonal Japanese countryside cuisine, using fresh local fish, meat, and vegetables. With its peaceful ambiance and connection to nature, Lamp Inn Aoni Onsen is a unique retreat for those seeking an immersive and memorable experience.
Getting to Owani Onsen ski resort
By TRAIN/BUS
Take the Ou Main Line to Owani Onsen Station, then a five-minute taxi ride to the resort.
BY CAR
Take the highway to Owani・Hirosaki IC, then drive ten minutes to the resort.
Driving to Owani Onsen Ski Resort. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Who is Owani Onsen Ski Resort For?
Owani Onsen Ski Resort is not the first place to visit on a perfect bluebird day. There are better options in the area. However, it is a great safety net when harsh weather limits skiing elsewhere. The powder access from the second lift is better than many other small Japanese resorts offer, making it enjoyable on the right day. But for those wanting longer runs with good pitch and terrain variety, the slow lift layout will be frustrating.
Panels outlining the history of Owani Onsen Ski Area. Image: Eliot Cochrane
This resort represents the intersection of Japan’s skiing history and the decline of smaller ski areas. The old, unused trails serve as a stark reminder of the challenges these places face as larger ski resorts draw more visitors year after year. A visit to Owani Onsen provides a glimpse into skiing’s past in Japan and a connection to a disappearing side of the sport.
The local character “Ajaran” posing out front. Image: Eliot Cochrane
Ski Asia’s Tiny Resorts series is a tribute to the ~85% of ski resorts in Japan with fewer than five lifts – the heart and soul of the country’s ski industry. The series was inspired by the popularity of an article we published in 2023, titled “5 tiny Japanese ski resorts that you’re guaranteed to fall in love with“.
