Yamagata Akakura Onsen is a tiny Japanese ski resort with “the friendliest atmosphere of any resort I’ve visited”

Tucked away in the northeastern corner of Yamagata Prefecture, right on the border with Miyagi Prefecture, you’ll find Yamagata Akakura Onsen Ski Resort – often referred to simply as Akakura Onsen (not to be confused with its Myoko namesake). Sitting in Mogami, a small town of about 8,000 people, it may not be the biggest name in Japanese skiing, but it has some serious credentials. It has hosted national-level competitions and produced skilled skiers. Despite that competitive edge, Akakura Onsen has a refreshingly relaxed atmosphere. There’s no rush, no pressure, just people who love skiing, whether it’s carving clean turns on groomers or cruising through powder.

View of Chuo Trail from the lower pair lift. Image: Eliot Cochrane

While the regulars know their stuff, they couldn’t be more easy-going. There’s no sense of exclusivity, just friendly skiers happy to chat. Locals are as curious about you as they are about your gear, swapping stories, and favourite runs. The resort has an unhurried, welcoming feel, and that laid-back energy carries over to the slopes. Whether you’re there to push yourself or just enjoy the ride, Akakura Onsen is the kind of resort where you can do things at your own pace.

Shrine at the top of Akakura Onsen Ski Resort. Image: Eliot Cochrane

Weather and snow conditions

Mogami isn’t known for massive snowfall, but it is consistent. Powder runs may not be up to your neck but often reach above the knee. It’s just the right amount for smooth and manoeuvrable turns. On days when the powder isn’t deep, the snow is slightly firm but still easy to carve, with a hard surface underneath from repeated snowfalls followed by bluebird days.

Lower half of Kaiwa Valley. Image: Eliot Cochrane

Larger resorts may have deeper snow, but are often limited due to wind holds. Akakura Onsen is sheltered from strong winds and usually operates as normal while bigger resorts stop lifts. It’s a reliable spot to get some laps in, no matter the conditions.

Mountain layout

Yamagata Akakura Onsen Ski Resort is split into two sections: upper and lower.

Resort guide for Akakura Onsen Ski Resort. Image: Akakura Onsen Ski Resort

The lower part of the resort has two lifts running side by side. One offers a halfway stop for beginners on a gradual slope and continues midway up the mountain, while the other continues straight to midway without a stop. These are the most popular lifts because they offer just the right balance between length and terrain.

View from upper Chuo. Image: Eliot Cochrane

The upper section was designed to make Akakura Onsen a viable spot for national races. At the top, there is a well-constructed start house, a dedicated race piste, a nice powder area, and a shrine. The race piste is popular among demonstration skiers because of its consistent pitches. The powder area is short but steep and fun for quick turns. The upper lift is also short, so many skiers stick to it for most of their time on the mountain.

Powder opportunities

Yamagata Akakura Onsen has a mix of tree runs and wide-open powder fields.

Looking down Challenge A Line. Image: Eliot Cochrane

The main tree runs are the Challenge A Line and Challenge B Line, both of which start from a traverse or catwalk. Challenge A starts steep and is perfect for floaty hops and turns before transitioning into rolling waves that add playful air opportunities. Challenge B is also steep but has denser trees, making it a less-chosen option.

Overlooking the Forest Line. Image: Eliot Cochrane

The Forest Line is another mellow tree run, great for powder beginners. It offers a surfy feeling with a few steeper sections to build speed. With a runout that passes under the lift, it’s an easy and enjoyable option.

The best wide-open powder areas are Kaiwa Valley, the tree side of the Chuo Trail, and the area beneath the lower pair lifts. Kaiwa Valley consists of two steep slopes that are great for early-morning laps before the crowd arrives. The Chuo Trail has some side powder for cruising, along with a few powder walls. The most popular powder run is under the first pair lifts. It’s not a named trail, but it offers the best chance to show off, nailing a line and making beautiful turns right in front of the lift audience.

Local skier taking in some powder under the lower pair lifts. Image: Eliot Cochrane

What’s special?

Yamagata Akakura Onsen Ski Resort has possibly the friendliest atmosphere of any ski resort I have visited in Japan. Even in the parking lot, the staff were curious and open for a chat, asking where I was from and why I came. Booting up, the nearby regulars were asking if anyone knew English to give a big welcome to Akakura Onsen.

One of the lodges at the base of Akakura Onsen Ski Area. Image: Eliot Cochrane

The atmosphere, both on and off the slopes, is fantastic. On the hill, the regulars take their skiing seriously, but there is always a relaxed undertone that keeps it fun. Inside, the laughter never stops. Small details, like clips above the stove to dry gloves and neck warmers during lunch, make the place feel like home.

Resort Spot: Café Maple

Sliding door to the entrance of Café Maple. Image: Eliot Cochrane

Café Maple is a great little hole-in-the-wall spot where the die-hard regulars congregate. Walking up the stairs to the second floor, the walls are lined with skis ready to go and metal shelves with gear bags. Inside, the wall is lined with pictures of past and present ski champions, with handwritten notes underneath alongside the hand-written café menu.

Walking in for the first time, I was welcomed at Café Maple by the owner and regulars. Before I could even put my bag down, a small cup of coffee was waiting for me. Every person, no matter how busy the morning rush, gets a cup of coffee. Soon, the café filled with laughter as more skiers trickled in, and the heckling of each other began. It’s clear that a strong sense of community is what keeps people coming back again and again.

Where to Stay

Yunohara Ryokan

Located in the Akakura Onsen District, just below the ski resort, Yunohara Ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn that offers only tatami-style rooms without Western beds. While this might be uncomfortable for some, Yunohara provides an immersive experience in Japanese hospitality.

Tatami-style room at Yunohara Ryokan. Image: Ameba

The onsen facilities are clean and varied, featuring indoor and outdoor baths, a private onsen for families and couples, and a foot bath that serves as a great gathering spot. The meals are made with local ingredients, showcasing foods like leek, mushrooms, wild vegetables, and even horse meat.

Getting to Yamagata Akakura Onsen

BY TRAIN/TAXI

JR East: Take the Riku Higashi Line to Akakura Onsen Station, then take a taxi to Akakura Onsen Ski Resort.

BY CAR

From Sendai: Approx. 1 hour 30 minutes
From Furukawa: Approx. 50 minutes

Road leading to the entrance of Akakura Onsen Ski Resort. Image: Eliot Cochrane

Who is Yamagata Akakura Onsen for?

Overlook from the top of the lower lift. Image: Eliot Cochrane

Yamagata Akakura Onsen is great to experience the warmth of local skiing culture in Japan. The skiing is enjoyable, but what truly great is the connections. The staff and locals aren’t just friendly, they are genuinely interested in getting to know anyone who visits their small resort. Whether you’re chatting over coffee at the café, getting tips from a regular on the slopes, or sharing a laugh over lunch, Akakura Onsen feels less like a destination and more like the local hill back home.

The upper half of Kaiwa Valley. Image: Eliot Cochrane

Akakura Onsen is a place where a real skiing community thrives. The welcoming atmosphere creates a cycle where visitors come, friendships are built, and people keep coming back. It’s a reminder that skiing in Japan isn’t just about powder, it’s about the people we share the snow with.

Ski Asia’s Tiny Resorts series is a tribute to the ~85% of ski resorts in Japan with fewer than five lifts – the heart and soul of the country’s ski industry. The series was inspired by the popularity of an article we published in 2023, titled “5 tiny Japanese ski resorts that you’re guaranteed to fall in love with“.